How To Use Chick Paint

Step by Step - How To Use Chick Paint

This is one of the easiest paints you will ever use.  Chick Paint is creamy and smooth and simply glides on.  Chick Paint can be used on any surface whether indoors or out, in most cases.  No need to sand, strip, prime or prepare the surface other than giving your piece a good cleaning with mineral spirits.

Caution:  Be sure to wear old painting clothes.  Chick Paint literally sticks to just about anything, including fabric.  Once it's on the fabric, unless you clean with soap and water immediately it is impossible to wash out.  That can be bad or good.  Bad if you wear good clothes to paint in, which I don't recommend, or good if you want to paint fabric, etc.

Important Step:  Before you start, take a few minutes and plan out your project.  Are you going for one color, or maybe experimenting with a base color and using a different color for a "wash".  The possibilities are endless.  It is helpful to use a sample board to experiment on before applying Chick Paint to your final project.  If you make a mistake or don't like the color combo now is the time to find out, not after you have spent hours on a project.  Remember, you can always paint over anything you do not like.  If wax has been applied, use mineral spirits to clean the surface and start again.  If wax has not been applied, just paint over it.


Make sure to have all of your supplies ready:

Drop Cloth:  Because I use my drop cloth over and over again I like the heavier fabric cloths.  If it is for a one-time project there are plastic ones that are fairly inexpensive that you can purchase.  You can use them once and then throw away and they work fine.  Drop cloths can be purchased at any local hardware store.

Mineral Spirits to clean the furniture.  Do not saturate the rag, just add enough to coat a lint free cloth and completely wipe down the furniture.  This will remove the dirt and any grease or oil on the furniture.  Allow to dry.  It usually takes about 30 minutes to dry thoroughly.

Chick Paint:  Cannot stress enough how important it is to plan out your project and make sure you have the colors needed for the desired look you want to achieve.  There are 35 wonderful, fun and exciting colors to choose from so get creative.  Keep sample boards on hand so you can practice before starting a project. 

Plastic Containers:  I save small cottage cheese containers with lids just to have on hand.  It is nice to have a lid so if I get interrupted during a project I can put the lid on the paint and come back later.  I have also been know to put my paint brush in a plastic bag and stick it in the freezer.  Thes ideas can be used only if you are talking about a couple of hours or maybe overnight.  I do not recommend any longer than that.  Do not allow paint to dry on your brushes.

Brushes:  I like to use a 2-3 inch brush depending on the size of the project.  The bigger the project the bigger the brush.  Round brushes are ideal for painting because they hold more paint thus making the application go faster.  You can literally paint a whole dresser in about 15 minutes.  Use a chip brush if you want the brush stroke effect, or for a smoother finish use a nicer brush with good bristles.  Brushes are a little costly, but if taken care of they will last you forever.  Never let the paint dry out on the brushes.

Another way to apply the paint is with a small 4 inch roller and paint tray.  It makes the project go faster and gives the surface a nice smooth finish.  Round brushes are excellent for getting into grooved areas.  After the painting is done all you need is soap and water to clean the brushes.  I use lye soap since the "good stuff" has not been removed and it conditions the brush.  The paint dries fast and sometimes stains the handles, but that can be cleaned off with a little mineral spirits or paint thinner.

Wax:  By planning your project you will know whether you want to use light or dark wax.  I always recommend a coat of wax because the wax is what seals and sets the paint.  By not waxing you run the risk of your project being scratched.  

The rule of thumb is to use light wax on light colors and dark wax on dark colors.  Or you can get creative and use a dark wax on light colors.  This will deepen the color and give the project an antique look.  If the dark wax is too dark you can mix dark and light waxes together.  Or you can apply a light coat of wax, let dry and then apply a coat of dark.

Remember:  It is better to use too little wax than too much wax.  

Wax can be applied with a cloth, but for an easier and quicker application try a wax brush.  You will notice the color is enhanced when wax is applied.  Apply the wax in sections then wipe wax on and immediately wipe wax off.  Let dry and buff if desired for a high shine.  The more you buff the more it will shine.  I recommend one coat of wax on legs, sides and drawers then two coats on top.  Wait for wax to completely dry before adding a second coat.  Again, buff when dry if desired.

Plastic Spoon and Styrofoam Plate:  I always use these for the wax.  Using a plastic spoon, I put a tablespoon or two of wax on a Styrofoam plate and close the original jar so it does not dry out.  I feel I have better control of the wax on the Styrofoam plate.  It is easier to pull off only the amount of wax needed and helps prevent getting too much wax on the brush.  Remember, it is better to use too little than too much wax.

220 Grit Sandpaper:  This is optional and can be used to get rid of loose paint or rust.  It is also great to break the surface tension on glossy surfaces.  I like to do a once over with a 220 grit sandpaper, roughing up the surface so paint will adhere.  This takes maybe 5 minutes.  Then you will wipe it off with a clean lint-free cloth.

I like to elevate the piece I am working on.  It just makes it easier to get into all the little nooks and crannies.  I use a drop cloth on the floor and use wood blocks under the legs.  I elevate whatever I am painting because it just makes it easier to paint, especially the legs.

When exposed to the air the paint will thicken.  If that happens, add water a half-teaspoon at a time to desired consistency and keep on painting.  It will not change the color of the paint.  If you add too much water, leave the lid off and the paint will thicken.

When distressing any piece of furniture, keep in mind that whatever the color is under the paint will come thru when distressing.

Laminates:  Yes it does work, but be sure to clean with TSP and give it a good sanding with a 150 grit sandpaper.  The surface is so smooth that you will need to rough it up a bit for the paint to adhere.  I personally do not like to use sandpaper on laminates because it scratches the surface of the laminate.  So, when I am painting with laminates I use a primer.  A really good one is Zinsser. 

Because laminates are so different, it is difficult to know whether you will get a good bond just from sanding.  I know many chalk paint companies say it will cover laminate, but I still prefer to prime so there is no doubt the paint will adhere.  Primers are pretty inexpensive, quick to apply and fast drying.  I have tried it both ways and had good results with and without primer, but my personal preference is to prime laminates.


Product I Use

I do not endorse any of these products.  They just happen to be the ones I use.

Cardboard & Wood Blocks to elevate the Furniture:  Place legs on cardboard.  It makes it much easier to paint and the drop cloth does not bunch up around the leg.  If you want the project elevated you can use wood blocks.

Mineral Spirits:  Do not saturate your cloth.  Just dampen and wipe furniture down completely and let dry.

Drop Cloths:  Always use a drop cloth whether it is plastic or a higher grade.  Protect where you paint.

Cover Stain Primer:  For stubborn stains, rust and bleed-thru.  Spray entire section and allow to dry then paint as usual.  Be sure to wear goggles and use in a well-ventilated area.

Trim Kit and Roller:  4 inch roller.  This idea is great if you do not want any brush strokes, and it is fast.